By Chanda Temple
Some chefs make meals. Frank Stitt made a movement.
For more than four decades, Stitt has been a quiet force behind Birmingham’s rise as a culinary destination. Long before the awards, the cookbooks, and the national attention, there was just a man in a kitchen, committed to honoring local farmers, Southern heritage, and the belief that a great meal can change everything.
Because of the role he’s played in the city’s food scene, local artist and photographer Arden Upton has created an exhibit in his honor. The exhibit is on display at Birmingham City Hall on the second floor near the elevated crosswalk as part of Birmingham Restaurant Week, which will take place July 17 – 26. The exhibit, which is the first time Birmingham Restaurant Week has had such a showcase, will remain up into August.
Paintings, drawings and photography by Upton are featured in the exhibit, which is called, “Frank’s Table.’’ The pieces were inspired by some of Upton’s favorite finds at Stitt’s Birmingham restaurants, including “The Orange Thing’’ martini and his lemon tarts. The exhibit also features a photo of Stitt and his wife, Pardis; a story on Stitt; and a story on Upton.
Upton’s work spotlights iconic dishes and the lasting legacy of mentorship Stitt has brought to the Birmingham food scene, where he has established such restaurants as Chez Fonfon, Highlands Bar and Grill and Bottega. Upton plans to donate a portion of the proceeds from purchased art to Magic City Harvest, a nonprofit dedicated to fighting food insecurity.
“When I saw Frank in the kitchen, making the different dishes, showing the ingredients from local farmers, and seeing everybody involved, it really opened my eyes to food,’’ Upton said. “The way he does food and the way chefs do food, is really an art. It just spoke to me.’’
Stitt’s food speaks to a lot of people, including judging committees. The James Beard Foundation named him the “Best Chef in the Southeast” in 2001. He was a 2008 finalist for its national “Outstanding Chef” award. He was inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s “Who’s Who of Food and Beverage” in 2011. And Highlands Bar and Grill won the foundation’s “Outstanding Restaurant” award in 2018.
But Stitt is not the only one to have won awards at his restaurants. Wenonah High School graduate and pastry chef Dolester Miles worked with Stitt for nearly 40 years before retiring in December 2021. She became known for so many desserts, including her coconut-pecan cake. In 2018, the James Beard Foundation named Miles Outstanding Pastry Chef.
Though Stitt’s food will not be a featured during Birmingham Restaurant Week, people can still be inspired by his vision by visiting the exhibit, where photos of Stitt’s shrimp and avocado salad Chez Fonfon; a collection of drinks for Bottega; oven roasted okra from Bottega; charred onion dip and house made chips; and the famous coconut cake are on display. (Photos in this post are in the exhibit.)
“There’s never been a better time to get involved with Birmingham Restaurant Week,’’ said Ashley Gooden, who works with Birmingham Restaurant Week. “We’ve added a few more fun things to make sure there’s something for every foodie, young and seasoned.’’
A scavenger hunt with Travel Bham will take place on Saturday, July 19; a Sipology Brunch will happen on Sunday, July 20; and a Food Truck Pop-Up Park and Market, in partnership with The Modern Greenbook Market, is scheduled for Saturday, July 26. All events will happen at City Walk in the 2200 block of Ninth Avenue North in downtown Birmingham. The food truck event will be from 2 to 7 p.m.
Savor This!: Birmingham Restaurant Week, which launched in 2010, is a 10-day event that gives patrons the opportunity to indulge in two, three, and four-course meals at a prix-fixe price at dozens of participating restaurants, bars, and food trucks.
For more information, visit http://www.bhamrestaurantweek.com.
For more information about Upton’s work, she can be reached at shop@ardenupton.com.
Chanda Temple is an award-winning writer living in Birmingham, Ala. She blogs at http://www.chandatemplewrites.com. If you have a food story idea, email her at chandatemple@gmail.com. Follow her on Instagram at @chandatemple.
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